Climbing glossary

Also see:

• List of climbing topics - A list of wikipedia articles relating to climbing and mountaineering.
• Climbing equipment - Article describing equipment used by climbers.

1. redirect

Ablation zone

Abseil

The process by which a climber may descend on a fixed rope. Also known as Rappel.

Aid climbing

A form of rock climbing that requires artificial assistance, i.e. ropes, to ascend.

Altitude sickness

A medical condition that is often observed at high altitudes. Also known as Acute mountain sickness, or AMS.

A fail-safe attachment point for protection.

Arête

The outside corner of rock. See also dihedral.

A device for ascending on a rope. A mechanical ascender is called a jumar.

A proprietary type of belay device. ATC stands for Air traffic controller.

"B"-grade

A grading system for bouldering problems, invented by John Gill. Now largely superceeded by the "V" grading system.

A hazardous mistake that can be made while lead climbing. The belay rope is clipped into a quickdraw in the wrong direction causing an increase in friction on the rope and an increase in the likelihood of the rope becoming unclipped during a fall.

Protecting a climber from falling using a rope.

A mechanical device used to create friction when belaying by putting bends in the rope. Many types of belay device exist, including ATC, grigri, Reverso, Sticht plate, eight, tuber, and the Munter hitch. Some belay devices may also be used as descenders.

A crevasse that forms on the upper portion of a glacier where the moving section pulls away from the ice cap.

Ascent of a climb on the first attempt with some knowledge beta of that climb, with no falls or hangdogging. Also see on-sight.

An anchor-point permanently drilled into the rock. [1]

A totally secure anchor, or set of anchors. Also known as a bomber. Sadly, anchors are often misclassified as such.

Bouldering

The practise of climbing on large boulders. Typically this is close to the ground, so protection takes the form of crash pads and spotting instead of belay ropes.

Buildering

The art of climbing on buildings. Note that this is often illegal.

C

Cam

1. To affix using counter-pressure.

2. A spring-loaded device used to place protection. See Spring loaded camming device.

Carabiner

Metal rings with spring-loaded gates, used as connectors. Also known as crab or biner.

Chalk

A compound used to improve grip by absorbing sweat. It is actually gymnastics chalk, usually magnesium carbonate. Its use is controversial in some areas.

A mechanical device, or a wedge, used to attach anchors into cracks.

1. To remove equipment from a route.

2. A route that is free of loose vegetation and rocks.

3. To complete a climb without falling or resting on the rope. Also see redpoint.

A device for removing jammed equipment, especially nuts, from a route. Also known as a nut key.

Climbing area

A region that is plentiful with climbing routes.

Climbing command

a short phrase used for communication between a climber and a belayer.

Specialized indoor climbing centres. See gym climbing.

Climbing shoe

Footwear designed specifically for climbing. Usually well fitting, with a rubber sole.

Climbing technique

Particular techniques, or moves, commonly applied in climbing.

Climbing wall

Artificial rock, typically in a climbing gym.

The process of attaching to belay lines or anchors for protection.

Cornice

An overhanging edge of snow on a ridge.

To ascend on a rock face by wedging body parts into cracks, i.e. not face climbing. See jamming.

Crag

A small area with climbing routes, often just a small cliff face or a few boulders.

Crampons

Metal framework with spikes attached to boots to increase safety on snow and ice.

Crimp

1. a small but positive hold.

2. the process of holding onto a crimp.

D

Daisy chain

A type of sling with multiple sewn, or tied, loops. In many situations this can be more versatile than a normal sling.

A dynamic climbing technique in which the hold is grabbed at the apex of upward motion. This technique places minimal strain on both the hold and the arms.

An object buried into snow to serve as an anchor for an attached rope. One common type of such an anchor is the snow fluke.

1. The ground.

2. To hit the ground, usually the outcome of a fall.

A device for controlled descent on a rope. Many belay devices may be used as descenders, including ATCs, eights, or even carabiners.

Diamox

A drug used to inhibit the onset of altitude sickness. Otherwise known as Acetazolamide.

The inside corner of rock. See also arête.

A slightly elastic rope that softens falls to some extent. Also tend to be damaged less severely by heavy loads. Compare with static rope.

E

Edge

Edging

Using the edge of the climbing shoe on a foothold.

A climbing technique used to reduce tension in arms while holding a side grip.

A belay device or descender. Named from its appearance as the digit "8".

Eight-thousander

A mountain that tops 8,000 metres.

Face climbing

To ascend on a rock face using finger hold and edges, i.e. not crack climbing.

Undesirable downward motion. Hopefully stopped by a rope, otherwise see mountain rescue.

A type of jam using the hand. See climbing technique.

A rope which has a fixed attachment point. Commonly used for abseiling or aid climbing.

To successfully and cleanly complete a climbing route on the first attempt.

What the second does.

Fourteener

Mountain that tops 14,000 feet in the contiguous United States.

Free climbing

Climbing without unnatural aids, other than used for protection.

G

Gendarme

Glissade

A usually voluntary act of sliding down a steep slope of snow.

Intended as an objective measure of the technical difficultly of a particular climb or bouldering problem. More often is highly subjective, however.

A belay device designed to be easy to use and safe for beginners because it is self-locking under load. Invented and manufactured by Petzl.

HACE

High Altitude Cerebral Edema - a severe form of altitude sickness.

Traversing without any footholds.

While lead climbing, to hang on the rope or an anchor for a rest.

Belaying at a point such that the belayer is suspended.

High Altitude Pulmonary Edema - a serious form of altitude sickness.

Climbing equipment used for attaching a rope to a person.

Helmet

Also known as a brain bucket. It can save your life, but only while worn.

A protective device. It is a hexagonal nut attached to a wire loop. The nut is inserted into a crack and it holds through counter-pressure. Often just termed Hex.

1. Equipment used in aid climbing.

2. A climbing technique.

Ice axe

A handy tool for safety and balance.

A screw used to protect a climb over steep ice or for setting up a crevasse rescue system. The strongest and most reliable is the modern tubular ice screw which ranges in length from 18 to 23 cm.

See gym climbing.

Jamming

A mechanical ascender.

K

Klemheist knot

An alternative to the prussik knot, useful when the climber is short of cord but has plenty of webbing.

Knots

Climbers rely on many different knots for anchoring oneself to a mountain, joining two ropes together, slings for climbing up the rope, etc.

Lead climbing

Or layback. A climbing move that involves pulling on the hands while pushing on the feet.

Locking carabiner

A carabiner with a locking gate, to prevent accidental release of the rope.

Mantle

A move used to surmount a ledge or feature in the rock in the absence of any useful holds directly above.

A crevasse that forms where the glacier pulls away from a rock formation.

Mountain rescue

A friendly team of people that will come and rescue you after an injury or accident. Also see coroner.

Application of a specific climbing technique to progress on a climb.

Climbing on routes that are too long for a single belay rope.

A simple hitch that is often used for belaying without a mechanical belay device. Otherwise known as an Italian hitch or a Friction hitch.

Névê

A metal wedge attached to a wire loop that is inserted into cracks for protection. See hexcentric.

Off-width

A crack that is too wide for effective hand or foot jams.

A clean ascent, with no prior practise or beta.

A section of rock or ice that is angled beyond vertical. See roof.

Pinkpoint

To complete a lead climb without falling or resting on the rope (hangdogging), but with pre-placed protection and carabiners. Also see clean and redpoint.

The portion of a climb between two belay points.

Piton

A metal spike that may be hammered into ice or flaws in rock.

Protection

1. Process of setting equipment or anchors for safety.

2. Equipment or anchors used for preventing falls. Commonly known as Pro.

Quickdraw

Used to attach a freely running rope to anchors or chocks. Sometimes called quickies.

Rack

Rappel

The process by which a climber may descend on a fixed rope. Also known as Abseil.

To complete a lead climb without falling or resting on the rope (hangdogging). Also see clean and pinkpoint.

Rope

An essential item of climbing equipment.

Another term for sling.

1. The span between two points of protection.

2. A long portion of a route without adequate Source | Copyright

---